Clarkes Court Bay, Grenada

Navtec agent Turbulence, proved, once again, to be inefficient, as their machine to produce the hydraulic hose, does not work at the moment, so we agreed a week ago that they should purchase the hose at Navtec in Connecticut, USA. But they tried another solution and produced one here in Grenada, in another work shop (Grenada Marina). They came Thursday with the hose and after a lot of installation work, I put pressure on the hose and it leaked, worth than before. So we are back to square one. They finally ordered today the hose at Navtec and we cross our fingers that it can arrive and be installed this week. I believe we will end up with an unpleasant bill and likely an argument.

So we are stocked.

As the f'cast is for strong winds, we moved New Dawn closer to the shore and a bit further out of the bay to be more protected and also, as the mast is not well supported with the missing Back Stay, we should be better off and have less rolling and swell.

But Clarkes Court Bay and Grenada is not a too bad place to have to spend some days. People are friendly and probably the nicest we have yet met in the Caribbean. New Dawn is anchored to the right in this photo and Calvigny Island in the background.

Calvigny Island is owned by a French chap called George Cohen, who made his money on software and he has spend € 100 millions on this island, which is his private property. It is quite remarkable. See his web site:  http://www.calivigny-island.com/  and you will see what I mean. You can rent it......... Apparently his company is the largest European Software company and is larger than the German SAP. We met him at the Concert and he seems to be in his late 60's.

Today Prince William and Kate were in town and there were many school kids, etc. attending the ceremony. We drove by in the bus, but were not invited, as we forget to tell them we are also in town. So instead we went to cash more money in St George's to pay all these bills and did some more spice shopping at the market, which is always a nice place to visit.

This is a collection of the locally grow spices, with Cacao, the big oval red and yellow things in the front, and Nutmeg in the background and to the right. Yes Nicolas and Stephane, we did buy a supply of Nutmeg for you as well.

Clarkes Court Bay, Grenada.

New Dawn at anchor in Clarkes Court Bay, Grenade, with Woburn town in the background.

Le Phare Blue Marina Resort.

Le Phare Blue Marina had this PM arranged a concert in the middle of Clarkes Court Bay, where they had a Swiss band playing some great songs staged from the Marina's tug boat. Next to the tug boat they had a large barge which hosted the bar and had seating for people. The owner Dieter's beautiful Swan 53 was also moored and formed a nice background. They arranged for people to be ferried back and fourth by the marinas various tenders, but even more people came, like us, in their own tenders and just rafter up. The consumption of drinks had a fast phase and the concert was a success, judging from Dieter's and his wife faces.

 The Swiss Band on the Tug Boat.

Dieter's Swan 53.

 Even a Golden Retriever came to the concert, but no beer for her.

Nearly full house.

Chris showing off at Le Phare Blue Resort's pool, the blue dress of her new collection of four dresses bought in Grenada.

Lobster For Dinner.

Finally the fishing boys came to New Dawn and we bought a 2.5 lb Lobster (EC$ 30 or EUR 10) and it went straight to the boiling water and will receive further treatment with some Olive Oil and Garlic so it will be ready for dinner tonight.

Elk Hide For The Wheel.

Today the stitching of the Elk Hide was completed; a long job and tiring for the fingers. Chris ended up doing most of the work, as she managed to do the best stitch/knot.

The Wheel with it new Elk Hide cover.

Stitching The Elk Hide On The Wheel.

We finally started the new Swedish Elk Hide on the Steering Wheel. It is a big job and we spend all day stitching, which is not at all an easy job. We believe it will take us - at least - three days to do the job and more for our fingers to recuperate. Well, it will, hopefully, looks nice when completed. As the job is a bit tough, we take turns so our fingers can recuperate.

 Starting at the Spokes.

Then the wheel and all of a sudden, it is a big wheel!!

Chris enjoying the challenge.

St. Georges, Grenada.

Today was market day in St George's. We took the bus (EC$ 2.50/person/each way, or EUR 0.80) and it is always a special experience with loud music and rough roads and drivers. We were 18 on the return bus. In town we met our friend Marcy from S/Y Mimi and the "girls" did the shopping while I had a coke at a street  bar; yes a coke!

 Chris was less than happy to be part of a quartet on one row of the seats.

Grenada is also called "The Spice Island" and they farm a lot of Nutmeg and many other spices. They were the main supplier of Nutmeg when the British owned the Island. Now India is the worlds bigger producer of Nutmeg. The market is full of the sellers of the spices and they are all "pushing" a bit too much.

Take a pick, they have it all in plastic bags or in bottles.

Most of the sellers are women. The men are generally around the bars, where there are very loud music and plenty of beer and rum.

Why not take a brief siesta at 10:00 in the morning.

Conch shells. The meat is, according to Chris, a bit chewy. I have not yet fancied the dish.

We were in Grenada in spring 2004 and in September that year Grenada had a direct hit by a very nasty and strong Hurricane "Ivan". Most of the plantations were destroyed and 80% of the houses and infrastructure were destroyed. A huge effort was made with many donations, like the USA, pumped, it seems, a lot of money to rebuild the country. When we compare the chappy houses we noted during out 2004 visit and the state of the buildings now, it is clear that the rebuilding has been a success and the towns looks much needier now compared to before.

But some buildings still show the scars of Ivan.

Well it was high time for me to get a haircut. So off it almost all went with this happy and smiling "Barber". Cost me EC$ 15 ( EUR 4.50) and he was a good laugh. He liked my blond hair, so I tried to sell it to him for EC$ 15; but no it did not work.

Finally we left Trinidad and sailed north to Clarks Court Bay, Grenada. We had a tough sail with the waves from NNE (almost on the nose) and winds of 13-24 kn (on the nose almost all the way). We took about 16 h for the 85 Nm sailed and were close hauled all the way to the extend that we ended up west of the island and motored the last hour against the trade wind (not really funny). 

It was great to drop anchor in this beautiful and well sheltered bay. What a joy and the quality of life here in Grenada is mush higher and better than in Trinidad. People are friendly, less crime and they all seems polite and happy. The island has improved a lot since we were here in 2004 and since it was hit severely by the Hurricane Ivan in September 2004 (a half year after we were here).

New Dawn at anchor in Clarks Court Bay, Grenada. Hog Island in the background to the left.

In the next Bay to the east is a new marina called Le Phare Blue and was recently created by a Swiss couple that came sailing here and bought the land in 2004. They created a Pearl of a resort and rents out the marina, has several bungalows, a restaurant on the beach and a Swedish Light House boat at the pier with its own bar and restaurant. We met the owners and they turned out to be very pleasant people. The owner Dieter even helped us in welding our Tender chain and did some other jobs, to which he did not wish any payment, except that we would use his facilities? So we have shopped in his mini market twice and been to his bar today. It is a wonderful place in a wonderful setting. They have done well.

 Chris enjoying the beach at Le Phare Blue.

 The Marina, which was relatively full and they stage the South Grenada Yacht Regatta during the coming week end.

The "Island View Bar" at the Woburn small town in front of the anchorage. Read the text over the Pool table. "No weapons; drugs; drinks ON the pool table".  Outside and in the courtyard many people were smoking hash and of course drinking Rum.

 The restaurant and bar at Le Phare Blue Marina. A great place.

Overlooking the marina from the restaurants.

Yesterday's dinner were Shark Steaks and they were fine. Today it will be Pasta with a Bolla, Valpolicella red wine.

We waited a long time to get Echo Marine to change the Membranes on the water maker. Their managing the workers leaves much to be desired, but finally, after a huge amount of my phone calls, they came today and the three chaps were excellent workers, as well as kind people. They had to dismantle a lot of New Dawn to get to the water maker and after three hours it was all done, but costly. We should now be OK for the coming five years, at least.

So now all the work, well most of it, on my urgent list is almost done and we went to clear out at Immigration and Customs - a silly process here - and collected the last shopping, namely the Duty Free and slowly, heavy loaded, took the tender back to New Dawn. It is all stored and tomorrow we will fill up with fuel and set sail mid afternoon for Grenada, a 14-16 h sail to the north, so we should arrive the day after in the morning.

Last minute shopping taken on-board.

After 32 days working, we finally were ready to launch on 7 February and it is a relieve to be floating again, even though the surroundings are not the most idyllic. The rigging was tuned yesterday, the new tender arrived, but still waiting for the Chaps (tender cover and protection). The water maker company is highly unreliable and we continue to wait for them to replace the Membranes. We had to cancel Tony to do the Deck Chalking, as it rains too much. Otherwise we are ready, after I have manufactured the hoisting devises for the tender. We can't wait to get sailing and get to a nice anchorage. We hope to set sail the coming week-end and head for Hog Island, Grenada.

 Being picked up at last.

 Last small job below the waterline.

 Almost in the water.

 The new AB 10' 6" VS tender arrived.

And Friday the Chaps arrived as well. Great tender after all and it rides much better than the Bombard as it is a RIB.

Finally back at anchor.

Asa Wright Plantation And The Carino Swamp

Early up this morning and collected by Jesse James for a trip to Asa Wright Plantation (http://asawright.org/), which was a 1 1/2 h drive NE and up on the steep mountain road and a rather scary drive on the steep and narrow, as well as poor, roads. But the trip was worth every penny. The mansion was great and the setting outstanding, with a wild life we have not yet experienced.

The house is located in 150 acr of rain forest and is very hilly and rocky.

Great top floor with a view over the forest and birds coming close. The house also serve as a hotel which is especially used by bird watchers.

The living room with photos of the previous owners and some royalties visiting.

There are many Termites Nests in the forest and some are located high up the trees, with a kind of highway leading up the trunk.

These Bamboos are growing 1 m per day and are about 25 m high and 15 cm in diameter.

Look at the centre of the photo and you will see a Boa Snake (those that strangle you). This one was just on top of our heads and thankfully seemed to be asleep. It measure about 1.5-2 m.

For a few videos please click on the following links:

The "National Bird" for Trinidad is a  "Scarlet Ibis" and they have this strong and wonderful red colour. We waited a long time in the boat for the sunset and to see them arrive at the Coroni swamp for their night nest . All of a sudden we noted many hundred of these graceful red birds arrive together with the white equivalent. The Scarlet Ibis is part of the national ensign of Trinidad and they figure prominently together with the Humming Birds on the country's notes.